13: Caution thrown to the wind - 🦀 🦀 feast

 Location:  Koggala

In food heaven- two crabs all to myself

A first on this trip. A day with a schedule that didn't start until 2:30 in the afternoon. We took full advantage of the late morning breakfast (we could have ordered room delivery) and at 11 am eventually decided it was time to stretch the legs.

Perhaps we could have thought that one through a little better and opted to do our beach and street walk at a cooler time.

It was a scorcher. The beach fell away quickly and in fact much of the bay was closed and labelled too dangerous for swimming. Not that we were looking to swim - but did want to at least set foot in the Indian Ocean. 

Trying the Indian Ocean

Wandered along the beach and marvelled at the tourist focus. Cafes, bars, restaurants and hotels dominated the beach front. Patches of sand were claimed by businesses which had their chairs and umbrellas prominently on display. At every little patch, a staff member would come out and ask if you would like to sit or sun-bake. All comes at a price of course.

Plenty of commerce along the beach

Signs warned that the beach was closed and that swimming in the area was dangerous. There were people in the water even though the red flags waved in prominent positons

@Rayleen and @Ken had hired a tuktuk and taken off in the opposite direction to Turtle Beach. Swimming definitely allowed there as long as you didn't mind sharing with the 40 turtles in the bay. They loved it.

@Ken enjoying meeting the locals

We left the beach and returned via the backstreet, again in awe that businesses are conducted in such run down conditions. But they advertised their wares and no doubt, at night, this seafood precinct comes alive. In these alleyways, it wasn't beach chairs and umbrellas on offer - it was tuk tuks.  And fir some reason - perhaps we looked a little weary - we were constantly offered a ride.

Old and new side by side - still rebuilding

Met the group at 2:30 for our organised tour. The plan was to share the first hour togehter, then split up for free time in the market and eventually to get back together for the 6 pm dinner booking.

Views from the top of the Fort wall across to the cricket ground

Old Town of Galle and its Fortifications was a surprise -it was a full city inside the walls of the fort. It had its begunnings as a Portuguese settlement in the 16th century and it was at its peak in the 18th century before the arrival of the British and while  under Dutch rule. For two hundred years it was a significant trading port for spices.

Today, it is a combination of tourist centre and private housing and it overlooks the Galle Cricket Ground. Its solid walls defied the onslaught of the tsunami in 2004.

The fort provided protection from sea attack, land attack and more recently from the tsunami

We took in the rampart and guns, the warehouses, clocktower, museum, government buildings and the lighthouse. All the while accompanied by a rotating contingent of walking salespeople selling "handmade" white linen goods.

Toured some of the buildings - Dutch influence 

Found the Crazy Cliff Jumper at Gate number 1 and couldn't raise the funds to get him to jump into the waves below. Think that the contingent of school girls on excursion may have limited the fund raising efforts.

Cliff jumpers needed rupee enticement

 @Ken couldn't resist the charm of the snake charmer and somehow @Nila produced those ice blocks again at a perfect time.

We were let loose for free time to wander the market and strike some bargains, before settling in for group drinks and our farewell dinner.

It's a whole city inside that wall

What a perfect venue. The food was fabulous and @Mac and I decided to throw caution to the wind and just eat! Still had two sheets of Gastrostop tablets up our sleeve. I was in food heaven and devoured two whole crabs. Cracked and slurped my way through every morsel - never in doubt. @Mac had a wonton soup and a prawn Curry - after his bland diet of the last 8 days - it was a struggle but he did it! Still marvelling at the 12 king prawns that topped his curry.

Girls rule - pre-dinner drinks

Demolished those crabs

@Nila had organised a singer/guitarist to entertain the group and all the classics were resurfaced. Mind you when the "Dancing Queens" mentioned ABBA it was vetoed.  What did happen though was a fitting end to our trip. Our guide team of three, (@Nila, @Mandu amd @Dassa)  @Abey and the entertainer performed a traditional Sri Lankan song. Filled with smiles and passion, they danced and swayed as we all joined in as best we could.  The song "yanna ratawatte " is well known to locals and is a travelling song - it invites friends to come and see the beautiful sights of Sri Lanka.

 Was a perfect wrap up to our time shared together

Entertainment by the Sri Lankan contingent

Weather: 30 degrees - but literally felt like a furnace on the beach - not even a hint of a breeze - definitwly felt like 

Steps: 17832

Health Check: decided "who cares"

Accommodation: Epic Unawatuna - a second night 

Straight from the itinerary:

After breakfast at the resort, today is yours to enjoy at leisure. 

12: Back to sea level via waterfalls, elephants and stilt fisherman

 Location: Nuwara Eliya - Udawalawe - Galle - Koggala 

Smiling at the falls - now that "rock man" moved on

Quick getaway this morning because we were heading south to Galle on our anticipated 7 hours of bus travel day. By the time we break it up with mandatory rest stops and a couple of activities it morphs into a long trek.

Got our sad faces on when we think of food. Each venue has been so carefully setup with wonderfully enticing choices but for most of the group "caution" is key.

Still need to "approach with caution"

Had our customary little drive around to see the city of Nuwara Eliya and noted the impressive Gregory Lake was created just for the beautification of the city and it provided a perfect misty backdrop for our prompt 8.15 am departure.There had been a festival on last night in the city precincts and this morning a huge crew was in place, cleaning up the rubbish and dismantling the structures from around the lake. We certainly haven't seen this much care and attention to any form of litter previously.

Bus views

@Nila had told us yesterday that this was the holiday retreat for the locals and it did seem a hive of activity and perhaps explains that attention to keeping everything clean.

Settled in for the down hill run of twists and turns. @Mandu somehow manages those head on exchanges with on coming traffic and tucks in anf out of gaps behind all sorts of vehicles. The yellow sign that shows narrow roads wuth steep falling away signs is my least favourite.

 I cringe when I see this sign

There is a bike under there somewhere

Again, noting the wall to wall agriculture - the area produces so much food - this is like one perfectly moderated little hothouse - delivering the right temperature, fertile soils and a constant misting. @Nila commented that the farmers here are well off as they have a guaranteed crop all year round

Filled in some of the time on the journey chuckling at @Mac's shower story. He left home a little frazzled this morning - might have even had a hair or two out of place. Must say it reminded me that there is the odd advantage to being short. @Mac, on the other hand, being taller, had that unenviable, precisely matched height-of-body-parts to the tap work that controlled the water in the shower. As his retell goes, his elbows constantly nudged the dial and the water temperature duly adjusted between steaming hot and screaming cold. And the biggest laugh was for when he dropped the soap and had to bend over to retrieve it. The whole water tap gave a new meaning to bidet. @Mac's hair is usually unruffled and never a strand out of place - he emerged from that shower as if he had gone three rounds with Mohammed Ali. But he was clean inside and out and he had closed all his pores with an alternating hot and cold wash! 

He did have a spring in his step as we made our way to breakfast - #showerwithhappyending - 😁😆😅🤪 and we both had the energy and enthusiasm to front up for a meal.

The downhill journey still had sections where we seemed to be climbing up. Looked like we were traversing a series of ridges and valleys to leave the Central Highlands. Everything remains so green and houses here are perched precariously on cliff faces.

Buildings on the side of the cliff

Had a couple of stops to break the journey- a comfort stop where every wall seemed to be filled with larger than life art work which depicted elephants, horses, birds or warriors. Think @Julie may have been inspired here.

@Julie, those birds - beautiful- straight onto the wall - no canvas 

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS

A. Ravana Falls

 Joined masses of other visitors to get a close up view of Ravana Falls - a 25 m cascading waterfall that has a legendary story attached to it about a Sri Lankan King who kidnapped a girl out of revenge (a sister of a relative - and there was a slicing of a nose involved)  and hid her in the cave at the top of the falls. It might be more than legend, because excavation in the cave found evidence of human habitation from 25 000 years ago and the writings which capture the story include details which have been verified in findings from the cave.

Nearly ot the top in

Access was via a narrow bridge and this little route was also the sales point for the men with "rocks." We have always been guided by @Vishal's view in India - the hawkers are just going about their job - tteat them kindly. But I have to say I don't appreciate it when I am grabbed by the arm. 

One gentleman latched on to me with opening conversation almost as soon as I alighted from the bus and offered a "rock" at no charge. "It's free, a gift because I like Australians."  

My poilte "No thank you," fell on deaf ears and he deftly dropped the rock into the front pouch of my handbag. It was only open because I had just removed my phone to take pictures. I tried to return the rock but he waved it away. He continued to follow and then informed us that his daughter was collecting coins for a school project and asked did we have any Australian coins. By this stage he had grabbed my upper arm and was holding on and @Mac had moved in to intervene. The only way out eventually was to sidle up to @ Nila and he quickly put an end to the rock saga. The only time the boundary has been crossed.

All smiles at the waterfall

Now free of the pursuit of the rock man it meant we could actually engage in viewing the falls. It presented as a spectacular tumble of water, with lots of locals taking the steps up the side of the falls and cooling down under the spillway. Apparently during the wet season it is a heaving, crashing monster.

Taking it easy at lunch

Took time out to enjoy lunch in another family run small restaurant. The orange bird like folded napkins and the fresh flowers in the coloured water made for a beautiful display as we entered. We had been provided with the Menu on the bus and had pre-ordered. Timing was everything here, because we had to be on the platform at 2.15 for the 2.30 show - otherwise we would miss our viewing spot because it was the weekend and so many locals would be there.

B. Elephant Orphanage

The orphanage was adjacent to the restaurant and we pulled up front row seats. This facility is home to 40 to 50 young elephants. They have been separated from their mothers, either through natural causes, or as a result of conflict with humans. They spend around 5 - 7 years in this centre as they grow and learn - the goal is to rehabilitate them to the wild. 

The after snack

Feeding station

They roam this through this parkland and congregate daily to receive their ration of milk. They are not herded- their instinct to find the milk source is what brings them to the gate at 2:30 and apparently they line up in the same hierarchical order each day.

It was very entertaining to watch. The handler at the gate let them in 3 - 5 at a time and they rushed up the slight incline to latch pnto the teats managed by the feeders. They were single minded in their determination to get there and the crowd loved to see the elephants on the trot.

There was no mucking around at the feeding station. There were bellows and grunts, some jostling and pushing, but in most cases it was a single minded focus on getting your measured share. 

The elephants even exhibited different personalities. Some, slow and steady. Others all bluff and bluster. Others quite sneaky trying to get a second serve. Others, just content to graze quietly on the fringes. A couple even tantruming - charging and demanding more.

All these variations were controlled by the second handler. He carried a stick amd a cattle prod. This combination managed the few recalcitrant youngest and with a little gentle persuasion only when needed, the handler steered each ember of the herd to the pile of leaves and branches that was available as dessert.

As the last elephant finished with the milk it seemed as if the herd knew it was all over - the lead female turned and they slowly made their way to the exit - to roam and feed until the call to the milk bar tomorrow afternoon at the same time.

There were 50 elephants at the feeding today

Included a museum

The grounds included lots of signage that explained the philosophy of the park and its organisation. There was also a museum that added more specific information about the animals and a souvenir shop.

A wonderful afternoon visit.

C. The Stilt Fisherman

Incredible contrast between the highlands and the coastal region. We were back on the coast, woth views of rovers, lakes and the ocean and we could see silhouette of the Central Highlands in the most of the distant horizon.

Perched above the ocean

Took a little side track to the beach and found ourselves amongst the Stilt Fisherman. Exactly as the name implies, a group of fisherman, perched in the ocean on a stilt with footrails that enabled them ti climb the poles. This had them perched over ocean and as they were not casting a shadow over the water, had a little advantage over the fish.

Today it is a 'set' tourist attraction but rhw pra rice found its beginnings towards the end if World War II. Food shortages and overcrowded fish spots prompted some clever men to try fishing over the water. At first, they used the wreckage of capsized ships and downed aircraft as their perches and eventually began erecting their own stilts. Two generations of Fisherman relied on this method of Mekong out an existence using this physically demanding technique.

Go @Ken fitting in with the locals

Not too physical for @Ken. He scaled the pope jist like he was in rhe Fire Station and happily showed off the fish that had some how magically materialised on the e d of his line. There were no other takers for the chamber up and balance challenge.

That was then end of the activities for the day but we still had time on board and @Nila shared an insight into the way the Caste system works in @Sri Lanka. Apparently, it only comes into effect at the time of marriage, where people marry within their Caste. Same same for the astrological chart at birth (engraved in a palm leaf)the involvement of the family and the Priest and even the advertisement in the paper.

@Nila passed around the newspaper so that we could read the ads. Goodness, wouldn't even know where to start to compose one of those - but it seems as if it works. There were calls for brides and grooms from prospective partners from all over the world.

Go @Ken

The wedding ceremony is a two day affair - the first ceremonial day hosted by the bride's family and the second, the home coming, sponsored by the groom's family. @Nila and his wife had their ceremony complete with traditional dress.

We were pleased to arrive at our Galle accommodation and glad that the Fort walking tour had been moved till tomorrowafternoon. We were all outof puff. The light was fading and it had been a long drive. Relieved that, even though it is a walk diwn a darkened laneway, we are here for two nights. Feel like we need a breather from packing up and moving on.

The small spacious king size bed, sitting room and bathroom - we were comfortable and were only two doors down from the open air dining room. Opted to eat local and our room attendant took our order on checkin.

The group checked in for dinner and coincidentally the cricket was in full swing - England vs Sri Lanka and there was very vocal support from the locals and the Aussies l, as England's wickets tumbled in quick succession. Meamt the game was set up for a thrilling conclusion tomorrow.

A little walk down the lane

So lucky, our room was two doors down from the restaurant - we stumbled home and collapsed camotose after another day that showcased the ddversity of this beautiful country.

Weather: 16 degree start soaring to sticky 30 degrees in Galle

Steps: 6934

Health Check:

Accommodation: Epic Unawatuna - comfortable for our two night stay. Spacious and clean, plenty of power options, cold drinks in the fridge, lovely grounds.

Straight from the itinerary:

After breakfast, you will travel to Udawalawe Elephant Transit Home, also called Udawalawe Elephant Orphanage, a rehabilitation centre for orphaned elephant calves.

Following Udawalawe, continue to the Galle area on the southern coast of Sri Lanka, where you will be met by the tour guide for a city tour of Galle. On the drive, you will pass many fishing villages and palm-fringed bays. The tour will begin at Galle Fort.

Following the tour of Galle Fort, continue to Koggala and check into your beachside resort. Today’s distance and drive time is approximately 300 kilometres/6 hours.

11: A tea plucker available for hire

 

Locked and loaded for a good pluck

Location: Kandy - Nuwara Eliya

A fun day because of the constant reference to the skill of the "tea pluckers" - I donned a basket and had a go - don't think our group would make the daily quota of 25 kgs a day per plucker (I love that word) - way too much giggling and chit chat. Our lady who was doing the tour called out to us "Come on ladies, work harder, less talking, there are babies to feed." Only made us laugh harder and talk more.

TODAY'S HIGLIGHTS

Followed the lead of our stomachs this morning amd decided to skip the dining room altogether opting for an extra little snooze. Overcast and cooler for the next climb from 600 metres above sea level to 2000 metres. Very fickle weather conditions as we headed to the tea plantations with intermittent rain and misty rain clouds.

Grateful that our seats were a few rows back because this was a twisting and turning, switchback mountain climb on very narrow roads. Roads that had a bitumen edge to them, which then fell away onto the tumble of mountain and jungle. I honeslty confess that at many stages, i thought the bus was wider than the bitumen and have no idea how we accommodated that oncoming trafic. In my mind, I am thinking it is similar to that winding narrow O'Reilly's drive at home.

 There was an unwritten courtesy here amongst the drivers. Any corner involved a very large blaring of horns - this audible signal must somehow signal where you are in taking the corner - because invariably the traffic coming down the climb was halted waiting for us to make that swinging uphill curve. Whatever the system, it worked and we had a snaking line of traffic behind us.

A mountain drive sharing the road

The countryside was beautiful - lush and green punctuated with cascading waterfalls, interspersed with small villages and painted an infinite number of greens under the cultivation of every vegetable imaginable and so many different fruits. The harvest was displayed on tarps and in make do shops and stalls. @Nila jumped out at one and organised our morning tea that included a red banana and a 

mangosteen. A hard shelled small fruit that when twisted open, revealed juicy white segments of a custard apple like pulp. It was delicious.

Roadside treats

Eventually, the fruit and veggies gave way to the tea. This small green tree hugged the steep slopes in endless ordered rows. As far as the eye could see, often dotted with the colours of the "tea pluckers" (@Nila's description) this was the iconic picture of the old "Ceylon" and the "Dilmah" ad.

Such a spectacular drive.

Waterfalls and ordered tea plantations 

A. Gem and jewellery making

Before all of that started we were in the little bus for that small drive along the narrow laneway back into the city for the first stop of the morning at the jewellery making factory. It began with a 5 minute introductory film that introduced the mining techniques used to unearth the gems and was followed with a tour of the cutting, polishing and setting stages and of course pipped put at the expansive dual showroom. Absolutely gorgeous - all sparkling and tempting - but only two serious lookers in the group and one buyer. @Merrin and @Paul's daughter is going to be a very happy "ruby from Sri Lanka" owner. 

More gem lessons

And speaking of rubies, there is always something to learn! Along with everyone else in the room, I had a slight tweak - well perhaps a big adjustment - made in my understanding of sapphires. A ruby is a sapphire - just a red one! Well there you go.

B. Bus loop of Kandy

Made a drive around Kandy to take in the University precinct. Some staggering numbers here related to this beautiful campus that specialises in science and medicine graduates. Again, education at the university is free. Although it is extremely competitive to get into. But once accepted, all fees are paid, accommodation is provided and a small allowance for food and living expenses supports the students.

Took a drive by some historical highlights including the Post Office, the Kew Botanical Gardens and the extensive sporting fields that host cricket, rugby and hockey. Marvelled at the lake views, only to learn this man made reservoir was created with just one job in mind - to beautify to backdrop of this city.

C. The mountain climb and the Sri Lankan Flower Boys

Time to continue the drive higher into the mountains. As we crawled into the mist layer, the fields became one mass planting of tea trees. They were drwarfed and stunted - but these bushes, if left, would grow onto sprawling and towering trees. The tea trees had their origins in China but were smuggled by the British and first planted in Sri Lanka in 1822 and today this country is the fourth largest manufacturer of black Tea in the world behind China, Japan and Kenya.

This was an extremely narrow road with the bitumen strip turning back on itself as we made the climb. The tooting of the horns signalled the approach of the vehicle to the hair pin turn and somehow everyone just waited and vehicles big and small made their progress in both directions.

The funny thing is, that if your were on foot and could take a straight route up the mountain, you would have a much faster climb.

And that's exactly what the flower boys did on this journey. Armed with the biggest smile amd the biggest bunch of flowers, they bolt up the hill smiling and waving as the bus crawls by - no sale in this section - no worries - they take that scrambling shortcut straight up and meet you at the next bend. No luck! They just keep repeating until the summit is reached and unbelievably, and accompanied by incredulous gasps, there he was again - arms and smile wide and flowers on offer. 

There is a whole back story to the flower boys that we found in an article online. Apparently a Chinese tourist published the story on TikTok - and donations poured in. The spread odcthe story on social media changedcthe lives of the villagers forever.

Weather changed so quickly

We did pause in the climb to enjoy lunch in a restaurant with a view. Took up our seats on a balcony that extended as a balcony over the cliff edge. We arrived in Sunshine and as we ordered, a low lying mist ball of cloud swept across the mountain top and we enjoyed lunch enveloped in tthe cloud. Lucky the balcony featired high bufold glass doors which were easily rolled closed.

D. Tea pluckers at 2000 metres 

Toured the Blue Fieds Tea Garden, a 200 acre plantation supporting 150 Tea trees, where we followed the story of Tea. 

Tea plantation on every corner of the road

We started in the factory to witness the labour intensive process of drying and grinding of the leaves. Don't think we saw any males working the line as the leaves moved along through a drying process and then grinding and packaging.

Touring the factory

90% of he final output here is sent to the Tea Auction in Colombo where it is purchased by the big companies such as Dilmah and then blended and packed for commercial distribution.

Great experience

Joined the ladies of the group in the fields to pluck the new green leaves from the low bushes. Laughed our way along the rows, bent over, plucking a handful and tossing it into the basket slung across your back. Not sure much of the efforts of my labour actually found its mark. But we did pool our meagre pluckings into a single basket and the leaves were then added to the drying pile

A plucking flock - careful

Just think, there's a possibility, as our leaves find their way to the auction house, in a few months we could be enjoying a cuppa that I helped create

If course, there was a leisurely cuppa to round out the experience where five different teas were sampled. Haven't convinced @Mac to be a tea drinker yet, and my palette wasn't discerning enough to pick the difference between the different varieties.

Made a dash for the bus in what we thought was rain - but it tirned out to be jist the fine mist of a cloud that had chosen that momemt to settle acroaa the plantation.  

And that was us plucked! A perfect experience.

A good climb

The final push of the afternoon took us into the clouds to Gallway Heights. Again, a narrow climb which we completed in a smaller bus.

Very English inspired 

 Needed to ask for a heater for the room - it was so cold here and with the extra warmth sorted, quickly settled into this very English styled accommodation. Preordered our dinner and joined the group for drinks and a little live music. As usual, we share the venue with other Tripalealers. Can't believe how many groups are passing through on this well worn trek.

While we were enjoying the hotel's hospitality, @Nila had donned his running gear and been for a 6 km run into the town and back. Probably his only quiet time! @Mac was not inspired - opted for pre dinner drinks.

Weather: woke to 22. degrees this morning and spent a lot of the day in a misty cloud - 18 degrees when we reached the hotel

Steps: 8 325

Health Check: same same. It's like a yoyo - just when you feel you've bounced back - you are dashing again. First dash of car sickness on today's drive - no worries, there's a tablet for that.

Accommodation: Galway Heights Hotel - such attentive staff and as usual, whole complex runs like clockwork. The team is very intent on making you comfortable.

Straight from the itinerary:

After breakfast, depart for Nuwara Eliya. Sri Lanka’s highest town and the heart of the country’s most beautiful region, the southern hill country, Nuwara Eliya sits beneath the towering Pidurutalagala mountain in a bowl of verdant, tea-covered hills.

Upon arrival in the afternoon, take a tour of a local tea plantation and learn about the tea production process of the prestigious brand of Ceylon Tea, where you will observe a rich tradition kept alive.

Afterwards, enjoy some time to explore the plantation at leisure before continuing onwards to enjoy a sightseeing tour of Nuwara Eliya. Enjoy the remaining afternoon and evening at leisure. Today’s distance and drive time is approximately 80 kilometres/2.5 hours.