Location: Jaipur - Chand Baori Stepwell - Agra
Happy Fathers Day
Moving onto Utapradesh a state of 220 million. Our destination was Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal. Once again, alternating between urban and agricultural land. A massive day if travelling at a snail's pace in the peak hour traffic and then outside I to that draining humidity.
TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS
@Vishal hosted the most popular excursion to start the day - which brought chuckles and a round of applause from the group - everyone was onto this one - it was a trip to the ATM. All the big spenders in the group had to top up for the final tip for our guide and driving team and to pay for the excursions. Still getting our head around the currency and the paper notes are always very worn and grubby! But along with everyone else we were flush.
Reflecting back a couple of days, @Vishal had a great idea for the group tipping and it was willingly accepted by the group . He estimated a charge of 1000 rupee for each traveller (that's $20 each) and he would take care of all restsurant, bathroom, hotel, service and venue tips. This was so convenient - you never seem to have appropriate notes and coinage and tou really have no idea of what should be offered. Anyway, simplified the process over our journey and when rickshaw drivers, bathroom attendant⁸s and bellboys were looking for a tip @Mac just smiled and advised them to "See the guide."
Chnaging views on way to Agra
Today's itinerary was full and it started with that long slow haul from Jaipur to Agra, completing the second side of our Golden Triangle Trek. Again, we took the back possie, because nobody else likes the straight back of the bench seat. I love it and even managed to draw some zzzzzs during the ride when I wasn't taking in the usual vistas of urban vs rural life.
More observation from the drive along the "second" side of the golden triangle
- the familiarity with the normal"cityscape has not made it any easier to understand - cows, cars and rubbish - still a shock to the system HOWEVER seem to have grown accustomed ro the odours - the olfactory system has "assimilated"
-people live, work, commute, stand, sit, walk in on and around the mud, water, rubbish, cows etc
- so many men! I wonder what the ratio is?
- ladies in such bright and joyful colours- lots of men in pristine white cotton shirts (how do they keep them clean?)
- many more Moslem women in Amer/Jaipur than in Delhi - or so it seemed - dressed head to toe in black gowns
- motor bikes and rickshaws - the people movers
- manual toll gates on this corridor for trucks and buses - very slow - long queues
- best sign of the day was a massive yellow road works accompaniment that read "MAN AT WORK" - we did note that advertising signs on stands on the side of thw highway were accompanied by a man on a chair- seemed as if they were "guarding" it
- more processions and pilgrimages- so much colour
- large fort and city wall constructions with red sandstone walls noted in various towns along woth elaborate temples and impressive statues
- major thoroughfare for trucks and the movement of goods
-flocks of sheep joined the goats and cattle in this corridor
- large ponds of algae covered water in low lying areas and highset houses built adjacent to an in this water - all I could think of was "malaria"
- suitable toilet stops are few and far between and drinking too much can create an emergency - just ask me
- farmlands were beautiful - green and the land intensley worked
- manual toll booths with their delays gives you am opportunity engage in waving to the locals from the back-seat of the bus - usually the ladies and children
- there are specific lanes for "2 wheelers" at the toll booth - there are so many of them
- been a couple of instance where cars in front haven't been able to make the toll and our bus has had to reverse out and change lanes
Slow going - enjoying bananas bought on the side of the road
TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS
A. Largest stepwell at Chand Baori
This is located in Abhaneri, which is about 2 hours drive from Jaipur and was a welcomed opportunity to stretch the legs and utilise the toilet stop.
It is among the most famous and stepwells in India and was built during the 9th century. It has 3500 narrow steps arranged in perfect symmetry, leading 13 stories down to the water level. It was a sight to behold and we were all grateful that we didn't have to take any steps towards the water.
It was cintructed by the King as a gesutre to his people - it collected rain water and histed a large complex of Hindu temples where the people could take shelter.
But during the Islammic invasion of the 16th century, the temples were destroyed and heads removed or defaced by the invaders. Today, we were seeing what was preserved as relics by the government.
Back on board and travelling slowly through the town to rejoin the highway and because we were progressing so slowly in a queue, @Vishal and @Manu jumped out of the bus and bought bananas for everyone from the local vendors. Why not becuase the bus was never a chance of outstripping their walking pace?
My toilet story today was one of desperation. So hot and and just so thirsty broke the rules about not drinking on big tansit days and consumed two bottles of water. Meant that at just under the 2 hour mark I was in desperation stakes. @Vishal identified a possible stop, sent @Manu into investigate. He came back with a thumbs down but I had to override the decision amd say I was happy with the description of a "stinky dirty squattie." I would have settled for a wall. Was locked and loaded, but iwth the cheer squad outsode the door I couldn't perform. Was grateful that they abandoned all hope of getting into my cubicle and lined up at the men's and then Niagara AND Victoria Falls had found a new home. I was generous in my washing and cleaning as a gesture of my good deed for the day - leaving it in a better state than I found it. Phew.
B. Welcome to Agra
An in incredibly dense population in this neck of the woods and the military installation was expansive behinf kms of brick walls, barbed wire and sometimes broken glass. The electrical poles for the first 4 blocks were on the ground and the black wires snaked across the ground and people just walk over it and around it - no problems. Signs everywhere announced defence land and the Indian army has taken over all the once luxurious buildings that were previously built by ylthe British.
I am a little conflicted - I am wondering if we are truly only 11 kms from the alTaj Mahal becuase this cityscape of Agra in no way indicative of what my expectation is for that white marble dome. We will see soon enough.
Again, our views out the window are of a city that is part of the Smart City Initiative. To be honest, there are some pockets of gardens and new shiny, glass facades in amongst the old.
C. The Red Fort
We had skipped the Red Fort in Jaipur because it was closed for reconstruction amd have added this stop in its place. So glad it was on the itinerary because it provided the first views of the Taj Mahal in the distance - on the other side of the river
This Red Fort evolved over many years and each new ruler added their own interoretation of a terrace or a pool or a room. It was a combination of Indo-Islamic design - marble was added to the red sandstone for luxury and precious stones adorned the inlay. All patterns and geometric designs amd arches.The Royal section was all marble and included fountains and gardens and Intricate tile carving in the marble inlaid generously with gold leaf.
Noted the enormous bath in the courtyard and thought of @Deb that was fulled by harvesting rainwater. There was a huge entertainment hall which was overlooked by the house of the many wives and 350 concubines so they could enjoy the festivities.
Ladies enjoyed the breeze of the afternoon as it flowed over the river. The walls of the pavilion were hollow and piping funneled warm water through the walls for heating during the cooler months (when are they?)
The story of the mughal king and his incarceration in the Palace paints a picture of an even deeper love for his wife, entombed in The Taj Mahal.
It is said that during his final years of imprisonment, Shah Jahan would either read the Quran or gaze at his beloved wife’s memorial from the Shah Burj veranda. This little corner was the only solace in his last days. It is said that Shah Jahan kept on gazing at the Taj Mahal till his last breath.
First glimpse - from the Red Fort
D. The Baby Taj
The tomb is a Mughal mausoleum and is often described as a “jewel box”, is referred to the “Baby Taj”. It is regarded as a precursor to the Taj Mahal -or its draft.
Built between 1622 and 1628, it represents a transition of Mughal architecture from red sandstone with marble decorations to the next phase, where white marble is the feature and used with inlay.
The detail was amazing. Tiny gemstones cut and shaped and then delicately paced to create detailed motiffs of vases and flowers.
But as a group we were flagging. The heat and humidity were taking their toll and combined with a big lunch and a long day we are definitely digging deep.
Wandered the grounds of the "jewel box" that was and got our strength from @Vishal's stories. The mausoleum's heavily decorated marble inlay has a perfect symmetry in its design. Flanked by four identical gates, it surrounds a garden where even the cornerstone marking trees are planted in symmetry. The only major difference is that one side is bordered by a river (the Yamuna) and the other one is what is now the main road.
E. View of Taj Mahal across the river
Back on the bus for the crawling approach to the next stop which @Vishal called "the back of the Taj Mahal."
We were there in fading light, compete wth lashings of Bushmans. Dropped at the entrance and then boarded the electric rickshaws ride to the pathway. Ambled through the parkland and popped out at the end to that stunning view of the Taj Mahal across the river. So beautiful. There was a walkway along the river and seats and viewpoints encoded you ti sit. It was a magical 30 minutes.
The three parts of today - the jewel box, the baby Taj and the glimpse from the Red Fort - combined beautifully to heighten our excitement for tomorrow and the close up.
F. Street Food Tour
Not much enthusiasm as the announcement ws made but as the clock ticked closer to the end of the daytime adventures we warmed up to it. The bus aircon provided that respite to find your second third or even fourth wind. How has our bus driver been coping? There is no aircon in that front driver's area and he has been unflagging and patient every day making his way though the traffic amd over the long stretches of travel.
15 minute turn around for checkin and then back to the lobby for food tour deparring at 8 pm
Boarded again for the short trip to join the heaving throngs that made up the food market. Cows and dogs woth heads in bins, or grovelling for food, sweat covered stall owners turning out the delicacies and so many people eating out on this Sunday night. Consider this a celebration of Father's Day!
Tried about 10 different items, I cut myself off after three and the men were lamenting the absence of meat. Plenty of beans, bread, potatoes and yoghurt and collectivley there were lots of moments of finger licking goodness. Did finish off with a chai in an earthenware cup (i love the chai) and sweet treats at the specialty shops.
At last, the end of Sunday! The group was collectively knackered however someone suggested a beer chaser. The bar was closed - not sure we were disappointed ir relieved!
You know - it can be a tough gig being a tourist.
We started with a prompt 7.30 leave and finally unlocked the door to our room at 10.22 pm. A magic day and one which maximises the opportunities you have on this short adventure in India. And the adventures start tomorrow at PRE dawn!
The Menu
A stop today at a "catering to Western taste" banquet hall. We had a small, beautifully presented room for our group amd munched our way through endless courses. Very satisfying and introduced to an Agra specialty - crystallised pumpkin!
Dinner was the optional walking food tour and all members of the group were on board.
Health: Had another 2 guest casualties today - lethargy and general feeling of being unwell plus associated toilet troubles. Hope the morning brings better news. Mind you with a predawn departure scheduled that might be optimistic. We continue to progress well.
Weather: 34 with drenching himidty - again
Steps: 19 538
Health Check:
Accommodation: Hotel The Taj Vilas (the ad was super interesting for this one when we checked it online - had POWER BACKUP and ROOM SERVICE DOCTOR ON CALL - oh dear.)
Straight from the itinerary:
After breakfast, travel approximately 245 kilometres to Agra, and on the way, you will visit Chand Baori Stepwell, located opposite a temple known as Harshat Mata Temple. Continue on to Agra, the quintessential Mughal City, where the world marvels at the epitome of love, beauty and sacrifice, the Taj Mahal, one of the wonders of the world.
This afternoon, enjoy a visit to Agra Fort (Red Fort).
Participate in Optional Food Walk Tour.
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