Location: Nuwara Eliya - Udawalawe - Galle - Koggala
Smiling at the falls - now that "rock man" moved on
Quick getaway this morning because we were heading south to Galle on our anticipated 7 hours of bus travel day. By the time we break it up with mandatory rest stops and a couple of activities it morphs into a long trek.
Got our sad faces on when we think of food. Each venue has been so carefully setup with wonderfully enticing choices but for most of the group "caution" is key.
Had our customary little drive around to see the city of Nuwara Eliya and noted the impressive Gregory Lake was created just for the beautification of the city and it provided a perfect misty backdrop for our prompt 8.15 am departure.There had been a festival on last night in the city precincts and this morning a huge crew was in place, cleaning up the rubbish and dismantling the structures from around the lake. We certainly haven't seen this much care and attention to any form of litter previously.
@Nila had told us yesterday that this was the holiday retreat for the locals and it did seem a hive of activity and perhaps explains that attention to keeping everything clean.
Settled in for the down hill run of twists and turns. @Mandu somehow manages those head on exchanges with on coming traffic and tucks in anf out of gaps behind all sorts of vehicles. The yellow sign that shows narrow roads wuth steep falling away signs is my least favourite.
I cringe when I see this sign
Again, noting the wall to wall agriculture - the area produces so much food - this is like one perfectly moderated little hothouse - delivering the right temperature, fertile soils and a constant misting. @Nila commented that the farmers here are well off as they have a guaranteed crop all year round
Filled in some of the time on the journey chuckling at @Mac's shower story. He left home a little frazzled this morning - might have even had a hair or two out of place. Must say it reminded me that there is the odd advantage to being short. @Mac, on the other hand, being taller, had that unenviable, precisely matched height-of-body-parts to the tap work that controlled the water in the shower. As his retell goes, his elbows constantly nudged the dial and the water temperature duly adjusted between steaming hot and screaming cold. And the biggest laugh was for when he dropped the soap and had to bend over to retrieve it. The whole water tap gave a new meaning to bidet. @Mac's hair is usually unruffled and never a strand out of place - he emerged from that shower as if he had gone three rounds with Mohammed Ali. But he was clean inside and out and he had closed all his pores with an alternating hot and cold wash!
He did have a spring in his step as we made our way to breakfast - #showerwithhappyending - 😁😆😅🤪 and we both had the energy and enthusiasm to front up for a meal.
The downhill journey still had sections where we seemed to be climbing up. Looked like we were traversing a series of ridges and valleys to leave the Central Highlands. Everything remains so green and houses here are perched precariously on cliff faces.
Had a couple of stops to break the journey- a comfort stop where every wall seemed to be filled with larger than life art work which depicted elephants, horses, birds or warriors. Think @Julie may have been inspired here.
@Julie, those birds - beautiful- straight onto the wall - no canvas
TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS
A. Ravana Falls
Joined masses of other visitors to get a close up view of Ravana Falls - a 25 m cascading waterfall that has a legendary story attached to it about a Sri Lankan King who kidnapped a girl out of revenge (a sister of a relative - and there was a slicing of a nose involved) and hid her in the cave at the top of the falls. It might be more than legend, because excavation in the cave found evidence of human habitation from 25 000 years ago and the writings which capture the story include details which have been verified in findings from the cave.
Access was via a narrow bridge and this little route was also the sales point for the men with "rocks." We have always been guided by @Vishal's view in India - the hawkers are just going about their job - tteat them kindly. But I have to say I don't appreciate it when I am grabbed by the arm.
One gentleman latched on to me with opening conversation almost as soon as I alighted from the bus and offered a "rock" at no charge. "It's free, a gift because I like Australians."
My poilte "No thank you," fell on deaf ears and he deftly dropped the rock into the front pouch of my handbag. It was only open because I had just removed my phone to take pictures. I tried to return the rock but he waved it away. He continued to follow and then informed us that his daughter was collecting coins for a school project and asked did we have any Australian coins. By this stage he had grabbed my upper arm and was holding on and @Mac had moved in to intervene. The only way out eventually was to sidle up to @ Nila and he quickly put an end to the rock saga. The only time the boundary has been crossed.
Now free of the pursuit of the rock man it meant we could actually engage in viewing the falls. It presented as a spectacular tumble of water, with lots of locals taking the steps up the side of the falls and cooling down under the spillway. Apparently during the wet season it is a heaving, crashing monster.
Took time out to enjoy lunch in another family run small restaurant. The orange bird like folded napkins and the fresh flowers in the coloured water made for a beautiful display as we entered. We had been provided with the Menu on the bus and had pre-ordered. Timing was everything here, because we had to be on the platform at 2.15 for the 2.30 show - otherwise we would miss our viewing spot because it was the weekend and so many locals would be there.
B. Elephant Orphanage
The orphanage was adjacent to the restaurant and we pulled up front row seats. This facility is home to 40 to 50 young elephants. They have been separated from their mothers, either through natural causes, or as a result of conflict with humans. They spend around 5 - 7 years in this centre as they grow and learn - the goal is to rehabilitate them to the wild.
They roam this through this parkland and congregate daily to receive their ration of milk. They are not herded- their instinct to find the milk source is what brings them to the gate at 2:30 and apparently they line up in the same hierarchical order each day.
It was very entertaining to watch. The handler at the gate let them in 3 - 5 at a time and they rushed up the slight incline to latch pnto the teats managed by the feeders. They were single minded in their determination to get there and the crowd loved to see the elephants on the trot.
There was no mucking around at the feeding station. There were bellows and grunts, some jostling and pushing, but in most cases it was a single minded focus on getting your measured share.
The elephants even exhibited different personalities. Some, slow and steady. Others all bluff and bluster. Others quite sneaky trying to get a second serve. Others, just content to graze quietly on the fringes. A couple even tantruming - charging and demanding more.
All these variations were controlled by the second handler. He carried a stick amd a cattle prod. This combination managed the few recalcitrant youngest and with a little gentle persuasion only when needed, the handler steered each ember of the herd to the pile of leaves and branches that was available as dessert.
As the last elephant finished with the milk it seemed as if the herd knew it was all over - the lead female turned and they slowly made their way to the exit - to roam and feed until the call to the milk bar tomorrow afternoon at the same time.
The grounds included lots of signage that explained the philosophy of the park and its organisation. There was also a museum that added more specific information about the animals and a souvenir shop.
A wonderful afternoon visit.
C. The Stilt Fisherman
Incredible contrast between the highlands and the coastal region. We were back on the coast, woth views of rovers, lakes and the ocean and we could see silhouette of the Central Highlands in the most of the distant horizon.
Took a little side track to the beach and found ourselves amongst the Stilt Fisherman. Exactly as the name implies, a group of fisherman, perched in the ocean on a stilt with footrails that enabled them ti climb the poles. This had them perched over ocean and as they were not casting a shadow over the water, had a little advantage over the fish.
Today it is a 'set' tourist attraction but rhw pra rice found its beginnings towards the end if World War II. Food shortages and overcrowded fish spots prompted some clever men to try fishing over the water. At first, they used the wreckage of capsized ships and downed aircraft as their perches and eventually began erecting their own stilts. Two generations of Fisherman relied on this method of Mekong out an existence using this physically demanding technique.
Not too physical for @Ken. He scaled the pope jist like he was in rhe Fire Station and happily showed off the fish that had some how magically materialised on the e d of his line. There were no other takers for the chamber up and balance challenge.
That was then end of the activities for the day but we still had time on board and @Nila shared an insight into the way the Caste system works in @Sri Lanka. Apparently, it only comes into effect at the time of marriage, where people marry within their Caste. Same same for the astrological chart at birth (engraved in a palm leaf)the involvement of the family and the Priest and even the advertisement in the paper.
@Nila passed around the newspaper so that we could read the ads. Goodness, wouldn't even know where to start to compose one of those - but it seems as if it works. There were calls for brides and grooms from prospective partners from all over the world.
The wedding ceremony is a two day affair - the first ceremonial day hosted by the bride's family and the second, the home coming, sponsored by the groom's family. @Nila and his wife had their ceremony complete with traditional dress.
We were pleased to arrive at our Galle accommodation and glad that the Fort walking tour had been moved till tomorrowafternoon. We were all outof puff. The light was fading and it had been a long drive. Relieved that, even though it is a walk diwn a darkened laneway, we are here for two nights. Feel like we need a breather from packing up and moving on.
The small spacious king size bed, sitting room and bathroom - we were comfortable and were only two doors down from the open air dining room. Opted to eat local and our room attendant took our order on checkin.
The group checked in for dinner and coincidentally the cricket was in full swing - England vs Sri Lanka and there was very vocal support from the locals and the Aussies l, as England's wickets tumbled in quick succession. Meamt the game was set up for a thrilling conclusion tomorrow.
So lucky, our room was two doors down from the restaurant - we stumbled home and collapsed camotose after another day that showcased the ddversity of this beautiful country.
Weather: 16 degree start soaring to sticky 30 degrees in Galle
Steps: 6934
Health Check:
Accommodation: Epic Unawatuna - comfortable for our two night stay. Spacious and clean, plenty of power options, cold drinks in the fridge, lovely grounds.
Straight from the itinerary:
After breakfast, you will travel to Udawalawe Elephant Transit Home, also called Udawalawe Elephant Orphanage, a rehabilitation centre for orphaned elephant calves.
Following Udawalawe, continue to the Galle area on the southern coast of Sri Lanka, where you will be met by the tour guide for a city tour of Galle. On the drive, you will pass many fishing villages and palm-fringed bays. The tour will begin at Galle Fort.
Following the tour of Galle Fort, continue to Koggala and check into your beachside resort. Today’s distance and drive time is approximately 300 kilometres/6 hours.
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