Conquered the climb
Location: Negombo - Dambulla - Sigiriya - Dambulla
The good news is that we have another wonderful Teipadeal contingent to look after us (@Nila, @Nade and @Dasa), the accommodation has been more to our taste (comfortable, clean and spacious) and the pace is calm and orderly. The bad news - despite the constantly offered generous and tempting range of foods available - it is all still taken with careful thought and a Gastrostop chaser.
@Maureen still a non starter and very quiet but @Sue is back in the land of the living and enjoyed her first lunch today.
It is a funny sort of tummy. More a bloating accompanied by a cramp of urgency than a constant sickness. It reports pretty soon after eating so that has been convenient - have a coffee and a something, report to the bathrom, board the bus.
The difference between Sri Lanka and India is like night and day. It is hard to comprehend that the Northern tip of Sri Lanka is a mere 30 kms away from the southern peninsula of India. The city streets in this coastal region are lined with completed houses that feature gardens, there's little to no rubbish and the traffic flows in an orderly fashion. Mind you, it is still stall holders with food piled high on tarps with fish or vegetables, not refrigerated and there is a tiredness and worn out, reused feel mixed in amongst the green of the gardens and the brightness of the flowers.
TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS
A. Driving north and leaving the coast
This was a four drive that took us through coastal towns and then into the highlands. It provided @Nila with the opportunity to give the group a history, geography and cultural lesson all prompted by what we saw or passed by on the roadside.
Progressing from low to high
It was punctuated with a toilet stop at a coffee shop! Many of the travellers, despite their stomach status, were very happy here!
Views of the yellow beaches, lapped by the waters if the Indian Ocean was an introduction to the importance of fishing and fish, we were told about the boats that spent 30 days at sea, the daily catamarans, the fish markets, the drying of fish process and the way fish is prepared.
The coconut trees opened the door for the cultural importance of this fruit in the life of Sri Lankans and the way in which every element of the product is and included pulling in to have a look at a "husking" business.
All window views on this big bus
Looking forward to trying the "toddy" which is a drink from the coconut palm. As a step up, this is fermented to become a whiskey. Might be a heart starter we need as the days continue to roll on - especially if there are another 1200 steps involved.
The proliferation of churches, temples and monuments was the prompt for the discussion of religion and culture and we were surprised to learn that Christianity was the main faith in this coastal area despite the country being 90% Buddhist.
The transits through the towns meant the conversation could swing to earning a living, voting, free and compulsory education, hospitals and industry. Surprised to learn that Sri Lanka has the second highest literacy rate in Asia (second to Japan.) We saw lots of students and schools.
Also passed through a town that specialised in roof tiles and fine porcelain - in fact, @Nila shared that all Noritake ware is actually manufactured in Sri Lanka.
Passed over the longest canal in Sri Lanka and learnt about the importance of the Dutch in helping with water management and movement.
Felt a proud "Warnie" moment went @Nila shared that after the Sri Lankan tsunami of 2014, Warne donated the funding to rebuild the cricket stadium in Galle. He has a little but of hero status in this cricket mad country.
This was interwoven with the history of the kingdoms and and its rulers as a prelude to climbing Rock. The names just roll off @Nila's tongue but I am no hope of catching them. But as always, King, Queen, concubine, first born sons and royal sons, jealousy and a quest for power all equated to a combination of murder and suicide as the throne was usurped.
All of this meant that the kilometres just disappeared. We are regularly travelling at pace here - higher speeds than we have known over the last week and I am confessing that after a spin in the front seat I wanted to get back to the middle of the bus where I couldn't see the on coming vehicles.
B. Lion Rock and fortress - Sigiriya
The off bus time today was the visit to the UNESCO listed Lion Rock. This 200 metre high granite outcrop certainly popped out of the horizon and the gasps of the hikers in our group increased as we realised that the 1200 steps up this sheer cliff face seemed to literally hang from the side of the rock!
I am admitting that although I got the gist of @Nila's explanations, definitely had to get help from Google to get the story summary.
Lion Rock, often referred to as the eight wonder of the world, is a geological marvel billions of years old and also home to an ancient palace and fortress built in the 5th century by a greedy King.
Today, Lion Rock, as it's affectionately known, is steeped in human myth and legend about Kings and monks, triumphs and defeats, and the historical importance of Buddhism to the local area.
The Sinhalese king Kashyapa I (reigned 477–495) built a palace in the shape of a monumental lion on the several acres of ground at the summit, intending it to be a safeguard against his enemies. However, the king was defeated in 495, and the palace fell into ruin
After the first 20 minutes, it was obvious that I wasn't going to get beyond "base camp" and was relieved to join @Sue and @Sue for a more manageable scout of the lower levels (eventually @Chris rejoined us) and I could let @Mac enjoy the challenge "unencumbered."
Waved them an encouraging goodbye, wished them luck and waited for the retell.
@Mac reported that there were wasp warnings along the way and during the nesting season these are dangerous caves to traverse. No need for first aid today. The group progressed along the stone step to the Lion's paws, found the detailed fresco paintings of the caves, skirted the mirror wall and scaled the metal stairways bolted to the granite walls of the rock. If you suffer from vertigo this mightn't be the place for you!
Keep on climbingAt the summit there were remnants of the Palace buildings, the vestiges of terraces that were once the Palace gardens made possible by an ingenious irrigation system and a couple of orphaned steps. The steps provided the perfect spot for a celebration photo!
The ascent of course required equal concentration as fatigue and the associated jelly legs came into play. I was very impressed with the physical prowess of all the mountain climbers until @Julie sent through her recount - she had completed it just 4 months after her heart by pass surgery!!!!
Meanwhile, our little group took a gentle stroll around the base, reading the signage, straining our eyes and ears for signs of life from the top of the mountain, talking to every climber who descended and avoiding the wildlife. Had a little challenge with the persistence of the "helpers" who wanted to rescue and escort the unfit stragglers back to the carpark, but once we secured our space from them, even managed to enjoy @Sue's pole dancing show. Don't even ask. Not only were there no photos permitted of the frescos at the top of the climb - no photos survived the censorship of this highlight either.
We definitely had some pooped travellers and many were drenched in sweat on their return. The consensus was that it was worth it, even though the wind at the top had nearly blown them over the edge. Funnily, the views of the symmetrical water gardens weren't as clear and as obvious as expected but the green of the Sri Lankan jungle into the distant mountains was worth a look. In all honesty, the focus on the step by step placement of the feet on both the ascent and the descent meant that all sense of the might and majesty of the fortress played second fiddle.
Glad to be back
All the climbers were glad they had scaled The Rock, but none were eager to return. And although we formed a clapping guard of honour of four - there were no prizes at the finish line - just the usual tumble of hawkers selling (mass produced) handmade items, a collection of mangy dogs and some very cheeky monkeys.
The bubble of discussion as the group emerged from their overheated body and brain was that perhaps the Tripadeal documentation could be more explicit in the description of the challenge of this climb. It had sort of read like a "walk in the park."
C. Lunch and cash stop
A bit excited because I could eat at the lunch stop. Felt very confident. It was a high rise "garage" setup owned and managed by a married couple- a Sri Lankan husband and Italian wife. Food choices were wonderful- crazy but the winner was a mix of fresh beans, carrots, pumpkin and cabbage- very lightly steamed - packed so much crunch and was just the natural vegetables without a sauce or curry. Delicious. Another "buffet" offering for the day.
All the climbers were glad they had scaled The Rock, but none were eager to return. And although we formed a clapping guard of honour of four - there were no prizes at the finish line - just the usual tumble of hawkers selling (mass produced) handmade items, a collection of mangy dogs and some very cheeky monkeys.
The bubble of discussion as the group emerged from their overheated body and brain was that perhaps the Tripadeal documentation could be more explicit in the description of the challenge of this climb. It had sort of read like a "walk in the park."
C. Lunch and cash stop
A bit excited because I could eat at the lunch stop. Felt very confident. It was a high rise "garage" setup owned and managed by a married couple- a Sri Lankan husband and Italian wife. Food choices were wonderful- crazy but the winner was a mix of fresh beans, carrots, pumpkin and cabbage- very lightly steamed - packed so much crunch and was just the natural vegetables without a sauce or curry. Delicious. Another "buffet" offering for the day.
Had to make the Sri Lankan stop to stock up on the local currency and we pulled over at a solitary ATM and added these notes to the stash. Really, we were withdrawing cash so we could hand it straight over to @Nila to pay for the optional excursions and the day to day tipping and water supplies.
Covered the final kilometres and actually arrived at Camellia in the daylight. Again, such contrasts between the accommodation here and in India. Mind you, we continue to be in the "middle of nowhere" - it's not as if you can duck outside and have a stroll in a township or source an alternate for food and drinks or mix with the locals.
D. Settling in for two days and the luxury of laundry
Another massive room - bed, sitting area and a bathroom that featured a shower "open to the sky" - it featured a glass ceiling. Did need to have our two singles redone to make a king size option and did have a discussion with the room boy about tipping. As usual, the practice for our group is to refer to the guide as the keeper of the tips - but our young man was suggesting that he didn't see those tips. @Mac followed this up later with a query on how all this worked. Maybe next time we would plan to do this ourselves.
Onto it!I take full responsibility for the miscalculation for the laundry - told @Mac he needed to work on a multiple of 7 and a spare - meant he was spot on in his allocations - but I was a day out - he didn't have any gear for the "cross over day." When he stripped off for his shower this evening - he was out of choices. Nothing that a cake of soap and the hair dryer couldn't fix.
We reported to our THIRD buffet of the day and just couldn't do it. Joined quite a few of our group in a clear soup and a dry breadroll washed down with some cold drinks. Even with these meagre offerings we found ourselves making a dash for it just before 10 pm and holed up in our room.
Drinks and a debrief, no problem
There were 8 in the group who still had a little to offer and still had gas in the tank. They cleared tables, took over the polished concrete floor and declared it their personal disco space, setup a new play list for the barman come DJ and to the all inclusive strains of ABBAS hits, belted out the classics and learned themselves a new level of status as "The Dancing Queens."
There were 8 in the group who still had a little to offer and still had gas in the tank. They cleared tables, took over the polished concrete floor and declared it their personal disco space, setup a new play list for the barman come DJ and to the all inclusive strains of ABBAS hits, belted out the classics and learned themselves a new level of status as "The Dancing Queens."
Weather: 28 - appreciated by the climbers
Steps: 14 142 (Mac's count)
Health Check: We are "social" - with gastrostop! Just when you think you're right, you're not!
Accommodation: Camellia Resort and Spa - wonderful grounds, gardens and pool, beautiful dining and meeting areas, great rooms. Happy to be in the one spot for two days in a row. Mind you, we share the space with mosquitoes and frogs - just ask @Bev who had a little hoppy under her bed!
On the Menu
We are opting in and out if food. Just saying, three buffet offerings in a single day is too much. Even when you are healthy.
Straight from the itinerary:
After breakfast, you will depart for Dambulla to check into your hotel. After checking in, it’s time to visit the ancient Lion’s Rock Fortress of Sigiriya. Photography of the frescos forbidden by law.
Today’s distance and drive time is approximately 139 kilometres/3 hours.
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