6: Man made perfection at the Taj Mahal

A dawn visit to the Taj Mahal - love is in the air - and perhaps a little pollution 

Location: Agra - Delhi

The best day. We can go home now. Mission accomplished. We've visited this magnificent creation and it was so majestic and beautiful. I literally cried for the first 20 minutes. I just couldn't stop.
We know and appreciate how perfect nature can be - how there are so many amazing birds, butterflies and flowers that carry patterns that defy the imagination. This building was the closest man-made structure that I have seen that mirrors the wonder of the natural world.

Ten years ago as we scaled The Great Wall of China, @Mac asked me where I wanted to be for my 70th. I had answered "The Taj Mahal" but subsequently changed my mind and opted for Japan. So grateful that we ticked the box for this India adventure and I could experience this marvel amd add it to my 70th birthday celebration memories.

TODAY'S HIGLIGHTS

A. Taj Mahal
We left the hotel right on 5:30 in the hope that we would be there before the crowds but there were lots of other people with the same idea. @Vishal organised a photographer for the group and we had fun with the poses in all the right spots.

All smiles for the early morning start

We had plenty of time to wander and explore and of course @Vishal had provided the back story. We sat with a perfect view and watched faint glimmers of sunshine try to break through the light clouds and perhaps a screen of pollution.

At the gate with the light already reflecting on the dome

The Taj Mahal has been described as a "spectacle in white marble." It is a monument of love that Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan gave to the world as a testament of his intense love for his wife Mumtaz Mahal.

My tears started here as we entered the gate - it was breathtaking. 

So hard to wrap your head around this opulence in white marble, adorned with precious and semi-precious stones that took 22 years and 20 000 workers to complete.His wife died in 1631 and the project began in 1633 and almost bankrupted the empire.

The intensity of the love associated with the creation of this mausoleum, contrasted so strongly with the loneliness and sadness portrayed in that iconic photo of Lady Diana - and that intensified my emotions. 

On Lady Di's bench

Everything here is of course symmetrical and the inlaid jewels in the pattern of the marble brings extra fire and colour - the dome reflects the changing times of day and the seasons.

The vaulted ceilings, archways and terraces presented a new canvas prepared so long ago. The passing river, the gardens and ponds and the tapered minarets that angle out slightly at 91 degrees intensify its perfection.

The minarets were constructed on an angle- if there was an earthquake they would fall away from the dome

The only asymmetrical piece in the building was the placement of the King's casket which was added as an afterthought. His wife has the prime view, and if you look through the lattice and the archway, her casket has uninterrupted views back to the entrance gate.

There was some detail to enjoy wherever you looked

We could walk through it and around it and tagged on to the back of any English speaking guide who was inside so we could gather a few more pieces of information.

No photos we permitted inside but the marble work was detail, exquisite and covered every surface. Every piece of course a work of art, completed by hand - and the size! The dome and balcony - again, with that perfect symmetry, filled with precious stones that match and reflect the light.

It was perfect that we had seen the building from afar yesterday - those views from a distance helped us make sense of what we were experiencing today.

Enjoyed with a fabulous group

The time just flew by and we did have to drag ourselves away. Hopped back in the golf carts and left that beauty behind - but don't think I will ever forget it.

We had to leave

B. Demonstration of marble inlay

It was back to the hotel for breakfast and checkout and then onto the bus.

Had our first stop to see how the artisans create the marble inlay. It was fascinating and the process was incredibly painstaking and time consuming. Yes, we enjoyed their hospitality and were then invited to make a purchase. Spectacular pieces, with matching prices and as the artisans who maintain and restore the inlay work at the Taj Mahal this team was justifiably proud of their work.

Couldn't convince any team members to buy today.

C. Completing the triangle and returning to Delhi

What a slow old journey that was - interspersed with a lunch stop at another food mall where we tried to solve the problems of life in India with @Vishal, addressing sensitive topics such as religion and faith, poverty and homelessness, the  breakdown of the traditional family, the growing prevalence of drugs, alcohol and rape and a vision for today's youth. Some very sobering observations.

The best part of the next leg of the journey was that our driver (who works away from home for 6 months on his contract) passed by his farmland. His wife, daughter and son were standing on the side of the highway - we pulled over, the doors were opened, they jumped in and gave him hugs, waved at us through the closed glass divider and were back on the side of the highway waving us goodbye! It was over in 90 seconds. Wish they could have had more time.

The toilet stop was a setup in the middle of the highway. You didn't pull off the road, you just pulled into the median strip. We needed one because one of our sickies was "really sick" and another needed priority clearance for the only Western toilet. Lucky that we did take advantage of it because it was slower than slow for the last part of the journey

Had our first missed turn off of the trip. Just missed our exit from the freeway by about 100 metres. No worries, @Manu just jumped out, stopped and cleared the traffic and we reversed back. Have no idea how these guys work the hours they do in the traffic which is reliably relentless.

And, after 6 days, that was India. Havent even scratched the surface but it has given us a taster. Had to say farewell to the team of three who had looked after us - they had been great. We'd prepared our tips, filled in the survey and said our farewells.

We had arrived in time for a very late dinner and after making our way up the impressive marble staircase, found our room and  headed to the restaurant.  Have to say the group was extremely boisterous for our final night in India. Curries, soups, beers, rum, naans  - and so excited because we had access to ice from bottled mineral water. It was like the group had won the jackpot.

Loved our day and looking forward to a sleepin.

Weather: 33 and persistent cloud cover

Steps: 15 692

Health Check: We continue to hold our own . The group still has four casualties. @Maureen couldn't make the trip to tthe Taj Mahal this morning. Too ill.

Accommodation: Taj Villas (online ads are killing me - this one has HOT and COLD running water, and yep, a doctor on call) We took advantage of the hot water but didn't need the doctor

On the Menu

Have tried to keep it simple at the road stops and order from KFC - still not even close to getting what we think we order! The classic was the waiter asks "what drink" - @Mac ordered a Mountain Dew -  ut when it arrives its Pepsi "because that the only one we have" - we ordered two wraps - got one wrap and one burgher - have to laugh

Straight from the itinerary:

Today you will have an early morning visit to the Taj Mahal just after sunrise (at approximately 06:00) and return to the hotel for breakfast or you can visit just after breakfast at 09:00 (included).

Enjoy the city of Agra at leisure or take part in the below optional activity. Late this afternoon you will travel approximately 210 kilometres back to Delhi and on arrival check into the hotel for an evening at leisure.

5: Father's Day in Agra

 Location: Jaipur - Chand Baori Stepwell - Agra

Celebrating the fathers on tour - only for half a day though

Happy Fathers Day

Moving onto Utapradesh a state of 220 million. Our destination was Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal. Once again, alternating between urban and agricultural land. A massive day if travelling at a snail's pace in the peak hour traffic and then outside I to that draining humidity.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS

@Vishal hosted the most popular excursion to start the day - which brought chuckles and a round of applause from the group - everyone was onto this one - it was a trip to the ATM. All the big spenders in the group had to top up for the final tip for our guide and driving team and to pay for the excursions. Still getting our head around the currency and the paper notes are always very worn and grubby! But along  with everyone else we were flush.

Reflecting back a couple of days, @Vishal had a great idea for the group tipping and it was willingly accepted by the group .  He estimated a charge of 1000 rupee for each traveller (that's $20 each) and he would take care of all restsurant, bathroom, hotel, service and venue tips. This was so convenient - you never seem to have appropriate notes and coinage and tou really have no idea of what should be offered. Anyway, simplified the process over our journey and when rickshaw drivers, bathroom attendant⁸s and bellboys were looking for a tip @Mac just smiled and advised them to "See the guide."

Chnaging views on way to Agra

Today's itinerary was  full and it started with that long slow haul from Jaipur to Agra, completing the second side of our Golden Triangle Trek. Again, we took the back possie, because nobody else likes the straight back of the bench seat. I love it and even managed to draw some zzzzzs during the ride when I wasn't taking in the usual vistas of urban vs rural life.

Many observation duties were completed by @Mac - I was otherwise engaged

More observation from the drive along the "second" side of the golden triangle

-  the familiarity with the normal"cityscape has not made it any easier to understand  - cows, cars and rubbish - still a shock to the system HOWEVER seem to have grown accustomed ro the odours - the olfactory system has "assimilated"
-people  live, work, commute, stand, sit, walk in on and around the mud, water, rubbish, cows etc
- so many men! I wonder what the ratio is?
- ladies in such bright and joyful colours- lots of men in pristine white cotton shirts (how do they keep them clean?)
- many more Moslem women in Amer/Jaipur than in Delhi - or so it seemed - dressed head to toe in black  gowns
- motor bikes and rickshaws - the people movers
-  manual toll gates on this corridor for trucks and buses - very slow - long queues
- best sign of the day was a massive yellow road works accompaniment that read "MAN AT WORK" - we did note that advertising signs on stands on the side of thw highway were accompanied by a man on a chair- seemed as if they were "guarding" it
-  more processions and pilgrimages- so much colour
- large fort and city wall constructions with red sandstone walls noted in various towns along woth elaborate temples and impressive statues
- major thoroughfare for trucks and the movement of goods
-flocks of sheep joined the goats and cattle in this corridor
- large ponds of algae covered water in low lying areas and highset houses built adjacent to an in this water - all I could think of was "malaria"
- suitable toilet stops are few and far between and drinking too much can create an emergency - just ask me
- farmlands were beautiful - green and the land intensley worked
- manual toll booths with their delays gives you am opportunity engage in waving to the locals from the back-seat of the bus - usually the ladies and children
- there are specific lanes for "2 wheelers" at the toll booth - there are so many of them
- been a couple of instance where cars in front haven't been able to make the toll and our bus has had to reverse out and change lanes

Slow going - enjoying bananas bought on the side of the road

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS

A. Largest stepwell at Chand Baori

This is located in Abhaneri, which is about 2 hours drive from Jaipur and was a welcomed opportunity to stretch the legs and utilise the toilet stop.

So deep and symmetrical - glad we didn't have to fetch water

It is among the most famous and  stepwells in India and was built during the 9th century. It has 3500 narrow steps arranged in perfect symmetry, leading 13 stories down to the water level. It was a sight to behold and we were all grateful that we didn't have to take any steps towards the water.

It was cintructed by the King as a gesutre to his people - it collected rain water and histed a large complex of Hindu temples where the people could take shelter.

Everything presented as is - relics sitting around waiting to be reconstructed

But during the Islammic invasion of the 16th century, the temples were destroyed and heads removed or defaced by the invaders. Today, we were seeing what was preserved as relics by the government.

Back on board and travelling slowly through the town to rejoin the highway and because we were progressing so slowly in a queue, @Vishal and @Manu jumped out of the bus and bought bananas for everyone from the local vendors. Why not becuase the bus was never a chance of outstripping their walking pace?

My toilet story today was one of desperation. So hot and  and just so thirsty broke the rules about not drinking on big tansit days and consumed two bottles of water. Meant that at just under the 2 hour mark I was in desperation stakes. @Vishal identified a possible stop, sent @Manu into  investigate. He came back with a thumbs down but I had to override the decision amd say I was happy with the description of a "stinky dirty squattie." I would have settled for a wall. Was locked and loaded, but iwth the cheer squad outsode the door I couldn't perform. Was grateful that they abandoned all hope of getting into my cubicle and lined up at the men's and then Niagara AND Victoria Falls had found a new home. I was generous in my washing and cleaning as a gesture of my good deed for the day - leaving it in a better state than I found it. Phew.

B. Welcome to Agra
An in incredibly dense population in this neck of the woods and the military installation was expansive behinf kms of brick walls, barbed wire and sometimes broken glass. The electrical poles for the first 4 blocks were on the ground and the black  wires snaked across the ground and people just walk over it and around it - no problems.  Signs everywhere announced defence land and the Indian army has taken over all the once luxurious buildings that were previously built by ylthe British.

I am a little conflicted - I am wondering if we are truly only 11 kms from the alTaj Mahal becuase this cityscape of Agra in no way indicative of what my expectation is for that white marble dome. We will see soon enough.

Life in Agra

Again, our views out the window are of a city that is part of the Smart City Initiative. To be honest, there are some pockets of gardens and new shiny, glass facades in amongst the old.

C. The Red Fort
We had skipped the Red Fort in Jaipur because it was closed for reconstruction amd have added this stop in its place. So glad it was on the itinerary because it provided the first views of the Taj Mahal in the distance - on the other side of the river

Red Fort from the outside - the marble Palace was behind these walls

This Red Fort evolved over many years and each new ruler added their own interoretation of a terrace or a pool or a room. It was a combination of Indo-Islamic design - marble was added to the red sandstone for luxury and precious stones adorned the inlay. All patterns and geometric designs amd arches.The Royal section was all marble and included fountains and gardens and Intricate tile carving in the marble inlaid generously with gold leaf.

Noted the enormous bath in the courtyard and thought of @Deb that was fulled by harvesting rainwater. There was a huge entertainment hall which was overlooked by the house of the many wives and 350 concubines so they could enjoy the festivities.

Biggest bath -outdoors - for @Deb

Ladies enjoyed the breeze of the afternoon as it flowed over the river. The walls of the pavilion were hollow and piping funneled warm water through the walls for heating during the cooler months (when are they?)

The story of the mughal king and his incarceration in the Palace paints a picture of an even deeper love for his wife, entombed in The Taj Mahal.

When his wife died, he lost all interest in ruling, defending and expanding his empire and his sons became embattled for power. The victorious successor, imprisoned his sisters, killed his brothers and locked his father away gaining power by cutting off the water supply to the Red Fort and forcing his father to surrender

It is said that during his final years of imprisonment, Shah Jahan would either read the Quran or gaze at his beloved wife’s memorial from the Shah Burj veranda. This little corner was the only solace in his last days. It is said that Shah Jahan kept on gazing at the Taj Mahal till his last breath.

First glimpse - from the Red Fort

D. The Baby Taj

The tomb is a Mughal mausoleum and is often described as a “jewel box”, is referred to the “Baby Taj”. It is regarded as a precursor to the Taj Mahal -or its draft.

Built between 1622 and 1628, it represents a transition of  Mughal architecture from red sandstone with marble decorations to the next phase, where white marble is the feature and used with inlay.

The detail was amazing. Tiny gemstones cut and shaped and then delicately paced to create detailed motiffs of vases and flowers.

But as a group we were flagging. The heat and humidity were taking their toll and combined with a big lunch and a long day we are definitely digging deep.

Wandered the grounds of the "jewel box" that was and got our strength from @Vishal's stories.  The mausoleum's  heavily decorated marble inlay has a perfect symmetry in its design. Flanked by four identical gates, it surrounds a garden where even the cornerstone marking trees are planted in symmetry. The only major difference is that one side is bordered by a river (the Yamuna) and the other one is what is now the main road.

Beautiful detail in every surface

E. View of Taj Mahal across the river

Back on the bus for the crawling approach to the next stop which @Vishal called "the back of the Taj Mahal."

We were there in fading light, compete wth lashings of Bushmans. Dropped at the entrance and then boarded the electric rickshaws ride to the pathway. Ambled through the parkland and popped out at the end to that stunning view of the Taj Mahal across the river. So beautiful. There was a walkway along the river and seats and viewpoints encoded you ti sit. It was a magical 30 minutes.

All aboard the rickshaw

The three parts of today - the jewel box, the baby Taj and the glimpse from the Red Fort - combined beautifully to heighten our excitement for tomorrow and the close up.

We'll be there tomorrow

Perfect views 

Got a pink sunset!

F. Street Food Tour

Not much enthusiasm as the announcement ws made but as the clock ticked closer to the end of the daytime adventures we warmed up to it. The bus aircon provided that respite to find your second third or even fourth wind. How has our bus driver been coping? There is no aircon in that front driver's area and he has been unflagging and patient every day making his way though the traffic amd over the long stretches of travel.

15 minute turn around for checkin and then back to the lobby for food tour deparring at 8 pm

Boarded again for the short trip to join the heaving throngs that made up the food market. Cows and dogs woth heads in bins, or grovelling for food, sweat covered stall owners turning out the delicacies and so many people eating out on this Sunday night. Consider this a celebration of Father's Day!

Tried about 10 different items, I cut myself off after three and the men were lamenting the absence of meat. Plenty of beans, bread, potatoes and yoghurt and collectivley there were lots of moments of finger licking  goodness. Did finish off with a chai in an earthenware cup (i love the chai) and sweet treats at the specialty shops.

Took any seat on offer - sweets  

At last, the end of Sunday! The group was collectively knackered however someone suggested a beer chaser. The bar was closed - not sure we were disappointed ir relieved!

You know - it can be a tough gig being a tourist.

We started with a prompt 7.30 leave and finally unlocked the door to our room at 10.22 pm. A magic day and one which maximises the opportunities you have on this short adventure in India. And the adventures start tomorrow at PRE dawn!

The Menu
A stop today at a "catering to Western taste" banquet hall. We had  a small, beautifully presented room for our group amd munched our way through endless courses.  Very satisfying and introduced to an Agra specialty - crystallised pumpkin!

Dinner was the optional walking food tour and all members of the group were on board.

Health: Had another 2 guest casualties today - lethargy and general feeling of being unwell plus associated toilet troubles.   Hope the morning brings better news. Mind you with a predawn departure scheduled that might be optimistic. We continue to progress well.

Weather: 34 with drenching himidty - again

Steps: 19 538

Health Check:

Accommodation: Hotel The Taj Vilas (the ad was super interesting for this one when we checked it online - had POWER BACKUP and ROOM SERVICE DOCTOR ON CALL - oh dear.)

Straight from the itinerary:

After breakfast, travel approximately 245 kilometres to Agra, and on the way, you will visit Chand Baori Stepwell, located opposite a temple known as Harshat Mata Temple. Continue on to Agra, the quintessential Mughal City, where the world marvels at the epitome of love, beauty and sacrifice, the Taj Mahal, one of the wonders of the world. 

This afternoon, enjoy a visit to Agra Fort (Red Fort).

Participate in Optional Food Walk Tour.